15 Comments

  1. Tye Gillig
    January 1, 2019 @ 5:14 AM

    I purchased a brand new folding trailer on 12-28-18 from Harbor Freight. But there’s more to the story. I had to go to 5 different stores, one store that did have it was blocked by their system from selling it to me. There was a recent recall on HF trailer tires and they have been telling people they were discontinued. Also I had a coupon for one that expired feb 2019 and this add made specific mention of dot approved tires. The information and stock is not quite flowing just yet but if people call around and give them the part number to check they can be had. But I’d they don’t issue you a original owners cert as the counter your in for a pain apparently dealing with the Chinese manufacturer

    Reply

    • The Mechanic
      January 1, 2019 @ 5:40 AM

      Thanks for the info update. Much appreciated.

      Reply

  2. The Inspector!
    April 17, 2019 @ 3:56 PM

    Had to call several stores…but finally found one in the Chicago market. They are far and few in-between, but can be had!

    Reply

  3. Landon
    June 27, 2019 @ 9:46 PM

    my 18′ tandem utility trailer is supposed to be good for 7K gross, but based on the rails underneath, maybe that is only for a very distributed load, like mulch. The cross ribs are 3×2 angle and maybe only 1/8 thick. Thinking of backing them with square tubing. I want to haul a 5500 lb tractor and am a little concerned.

    Reply

    • The Mechanic
      June 28, 2019 @ 9:29 AM

      That’s great that you took the time to look at it. Well done. Based on what you say, sounds like you are correct in making changes. Point loading like a tractor wheels is a much different use case than evenly distributed loading. You are right there. I am frequently disappointed with factory cheap trailers. Good luck with the project.

      Reply

      • The Mechanic
        July 13, 2019 @ 7:48 PM

        I’ve got a great video here (I should post it) that shows the stupidity of the triple torsion. I don’t get why “engineering” doesn’t do their engineering before building and selling these trailers. Oh well. If you’re light and flat, they do OK, but don’t ever approach the loading limits.

        Reply

  4. Dwight Stebner
    February 2, 2020 @ 8:16 PM

    I have a 20 ft rv trailer. I would like to extend he frame out the front to build a deck to haul my Polaris SXS. extending the frame about 7 feet.
    The main frame is 4″ channel. I plan to stack the frame rails and build the dech on top of rails in front of living quarters.
    Is this method recommend or should I drop the idea?

    Reply

  5. Casey
    July 23, 2020 @ 1:23 AM

    You possibly could extend the front of the trailer for a SXS BUT my only concern would be total tongue weight in comparison to what the nanugacture Intended. I know it could be done but today’s UTV’s get fairly heavy. You may consider moving the axkes forward a touch to make up for the extra tongue weight or possible even moving your fresh water tank to the rear of the trailer and keep some In it to help offset the added tongue weight. This can only be achieved if all of the combined weight doesn’t exceed the manufactures recommended combined axle capacity. I’m no engineer and I dont claim tobbe. I’m just a poor farmer that has some experience with this sort of stuff and giving a couple recommendations on what would need to be accomplished before a task if that multitude can be completed safely.

    Reply

  6. Richard
    July 27, 2020 @ 8:17 AM

    Can u send a book in from of PDF file I want start to built a trailor single axle please

    Reply

    • Mechanic
      July 28, 2020 @ 6:14 AM

      All our plans come in PDF format, and you are welcome to purchase the ones you need.

      Reply

    • Craig Bennett
      December 10, 2020 @ 11:07 PM

      I backed up into a bank and warped my trailer, how do I sraighen it?

      Reply

      • Mechanic
        December 11, 2020 @ 11:37 AM

        First, I’m really sad to hear that. What a bummer.
        Second, straightening is tough. There are automotive frame shops that have lots of hydraulics and ways to measure straightness that might help you. That’s where I’d start.
        DIY is much more difficult — depending on how it’s bent. You will need to build some framing to use with hydraulic jacks and such to tweak it back. Try to put all the forces from one area of the trailer to another and measure often to see what’s happening. Good luck.

        Reply

  7. Matt
    December 8, 2020 @ 6:39 PM

    Hello,

    I have really enjoyed reading the various articles regarding trailers, especially as I am about to embark on purchasing my first trailer, which is used and will be needing some upgrades, including strengthening the frame. I was wondering if you would be able to clarify some things for me please:

    -Under the category “Gussets & Angle Braces to Strengthen A Trailer Frame”, you list and show drawings of the various types of metal that can be used for the intended purpose. I have some nice angle iron that I would like to use for this purpose, but I have a few questions. Regarding the pictures in this category, you show the metal facing inward (open side) and in the middle of the frame, but in the diagram in the section below “Crossmembers And Beams”, you show the angle iron (blue) facing outward but located toward the top of the frame.

    Silly question, but should the open face of the metal be facing inward, or outward, or does it matter? Also, is it an issue to weld it higher up on the frame versus being in the middle? In regards to the middle or higher up, my logical preference would be to weld it higher up only to add additional support in the corners for the flooring of the trailer.

    Also, is there a rule of thumb or formula for figuring out how long the corner gussets or braces should be based on the size of the trailer? The angle iron I have is 1/4″ thick. Any help or guidance you could give would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

    Reply

    • Mechanic
      December 9, 2020 @ 7:59 PM

      Interesting question. The amount of strength by a gusset depends on a lot of things. Orientation, plays some role, but more important is length, and strength of the main pieces you’re connecting. Generally longer is greater strength, but within reason of the strength of the material. If your main pieces are light material, putting a heavy walled gusset is just overkill. As far a vertical position, I think it’s fine to put them at bed level to support it. Several of our designs do just that. Just remember, these handle the weird transitions and forces. How well they perform is largely dependent on other conditions of the trailer, and what kinds of activates and load you’ll be using it for.

      Reply

  8. thom singer
    April 12, 2021 @ 9:06 AM

    I’ve never liked to place flat strap type gussets in the middle of a face on rectilinear tube. I have seen such gussets act like an old fashioned can opener on the face of the tube due to the major frame member’s flexing. It doesn’t take much flexing to start to see this problem. The tattle-tale is usually rust at the tips of the long side of the gusset.

    My own preference it to place them on the edges or the tube face parallel to the faces of the gusset. Second best is to lay a piece of strap flat and centered on the face of the tube and put the end of the gusset plate/strap centered on it. Ideally this piece of strap is 1/2 the width of the face it lays on, is a little longer than the length of the gusset edge in contact with the tube, and is no thicker than the wall of the tube.

    Reply

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