This real-world example of failure shows how a weak trailer design can lead to dangerous problems. This family was lucky, yet they paid a price.
If you are shopping for a trailer, this story is for you – to learn before you buy.
If you are a trailer manufacturer, please pay attention. The cost of disaster is far more than you can save cutting corners. The risks, legal and life, are not just frustrating – they are dangerous.
* Skip to the bottom for our Quick Reference of Red Flags When Buying a Trailer.
How Do You Know A Weak Trailer Design?
Should you be concerned about buying a weak trailer from a dealer? Unfortunately, yes. There are many awesome looking, but dangerously weak, brand new trailers out there for sale. Buyer Beware.
We will get into some indicators of a weak trailer design, but first, a customer experience prompting this article.
It starts with a man moving his family from Washington to Texas. He chose a DIY move, so he ordered a beautiful trailer. He chose all the right specs for a great trailer. Here is a photo at the sales lot. Yes, the trailer looks great.
Yes, new and shiny is a great camouflage, because it pulls our attention from things we need to see. And, it is easy to trust a smiling face at a dealership with the new and shiny all around.
I wish I could give the dealership a benefit of doubt – but selling trailers is their business! It is their responsibility to know the product, and to identify a weak trailer if it comes in.
Let’s look at the customer experience firsthand.
In Words Of The Customer:
“I bought a custom 8.5’ x 32’ cargo trailer with three 7k axles. They upgraded the main frame to 8” tubular (1/8” thickness; 0.13”). They DID NOT upgrade the A-frame tongue. It was a 6” tubular steel (1/8” thickness; 0.13”). Well, it bent right where the a-frame meets the V-nose on both sides. I had a welder fix the tongue A-frame by installing 3/16” steel a-frame beams.
“We (eventually) arrived safely at our destination in Texas from Washington (2200 miles) and am extremely grateful to God that nothing worse happened. I realize there are many variables and trust me, there is more to my story (bend happened midway moving my family cross country for my next duty station with the Army).
“The welder who fixed the A-frame in Utah (1100 miles) couldn’t believe we were on 8” 1/8” tubular (rectangular) and that the A-frame was even smaller. His facial expressions spoke louder than his words. We contacted him on Friday afternoon of Memorial Day weekend and he worked on Friday night and Saturday morning and we had it back by Saturday afternoon. Amazing considering the circumstances. He only had access to more 6” tubular (rectangular), but it was at least 3/16” thick. It just looks stronger and does not sound like a tin can when you thump it with your finger. For $1200 I felt much better.
“Unfortunately, my story does not get any better. I had an electric tongue jack delivered and when I went to install it I discovered that the trailer coupler is only rated for 14,000 pounds. Not sure why I never saw the stamp on the coupler before or that I never thought to check it. Too trusting I guess. Very scary we traveled 2200 miles with a 14K coupler on a trailer rated for 21K per the sticker the company put on, and weight tickets that show we were at 19,500 gross trailer weight with cargo.
“I was not impressed with the overall quality. Had I seen this trailer before delivery, I would not have bought it. The greater concerns are the safety scares – both with the bent tongue and in discovering the undersized coupler.”
What Do You Think?
After reading the story, what do you think of the situation? Please fill the comments below.
I hear these things all too frequently, so I want to know what you, our readers, think. Does this make you worried about buying a trailer? Or do you expect such things? Does it make you angry? What advice would you give?
Questions About A Weak Trailer
Now you have some background, we need to sort fact from opinion.
Q: Is the trailer weak? Or is that an opinion?
A: I believe this is fact. Why? The trailer is rated for 21,000 GTWR (Gross Trailer Weight Rating), but failed in normal operation at less, 19,500 GTW. While I cannot validate tongue weight, the customer reports it was around 10%, which is appropriate. “Weak” is subjective, but if it cannot perform to the rated limits, then it is weak.
Q: The repairman’s reaction suggests surprise at the frame materials. Are those beams too weak? Obviously the tongue was, because it bent. What about the main frame beams?
A: His reaction carries weight, especially coming from someone with experience. While an engineering analysis would be nice, yet a trained professional can often recognize problems on sight. Also, for me, as a engineer designing trailers for decades, and I agree: his concern is valid. (More on this below.)
More articles with related examples: Another bent tongue on a similar trailer, then a broken trailer frame. Finally, this trailer tongue break.
Are There Standards To Judge A Weak Trailer?
Here are some questions this customer asked.
- “I am curious on your opinion if the 6” tube 1/8” thickness was sufficient for a 21,000 GVWR cargo trailer?”
- “Is there an industry standard build sheet I could point to to demonstrate they did not build this trailer correctly?”
- “Is the repairman surprise at using 8” 1/8” tubular (rectangular) valid?”
- “Any advice on the next steps to take and in what order?”
Without seeing the actual trailer (only photos at that time), I gave examples from experience rather than direct answers about his specific trailer.
My Answers In The Same Order:
- My opinion? I don’t believe any trailer at 32 feet can properly carry 21,000 lbs on an 8″ beam of 1/8″ wall. I have analyzed a lot of trailers in many sizes and lengths. As they get longer, stresses go up. For reference, our tiny house trailers at 32 feet length use a 10″ I-beam, which is an order of magnitude stronger than an 8″ x 2″ x 1/8″ wall tube. Our 14,000 lb, 24′ deck-over trailers use at least 3/16″ wall – yet they are 8′ shorter with 7000 lbs less capacity!
- No, standards are lacking, because trailer design is so unique. It depends on many things. That said, DOT standards for parts, like the coupler, axles, chains, . . . are specified. Your coupler has the rating right on it.
- See question #1. I am a bit surprised he let you go knowing it.
- Advice? I think you have grounds to demand a full refund, including expenses for the fix. Speak kindly, but if they respond with a brick wall, then get out the sledge hammer. They obviously did not follow standards with the hitch, which demonstrates a willingness to cut corners. You have experts that say the frame is too weak for the capacity declaration on the tag. Start the conversation by giving them the choice to make good, then be ready to go where they choose to go.
Resolution?
Since the manufacturer did not fill their end of the contract in providing a trailer to perform as stated, and since they used components which violate DOT standards, the actual trailer is useless. It cannot be sold in good conscience knowing the weakness, and it cannot be used without putting people at risk.
To me, there are 3 possible paths forward.
- The manufacturer buys back the trailer at full price including tax and cost of repairs. This is the cheapest and easiest option for the manufacturer.
- The manufacturer provides a replacement trailer adequate to perform as contracted in the first place.
- A refusal of the company to make it right puts them in serious legal jeopardy including reports to the Department of Transportation, further investigation, possible recalls, and legal action – a situation no company wants to face.
If it comes to a legal path, I will guess they do not have engineering analysis to validate this trailer design. Then, inspection documents silly because they failed to notice the obvious – a 21K spec with a 14K coupler. Ouch.
Most small manufacturers do not have engineering staff. I know that because I have contracted services to a few. (I have also been fired by some because I would not sign-off on their weak trailer design. Ah, but those are another story.)
Big Thanks To The Welder!
One bright spot! A huge Thank You to the welder in Utah who jumped in over Memorial Day weekend and got the trailer back on the road. That kind of service — going above and beyond to help a stranger — deserves recognition. I am thankful for stand-up people like him!
Trailer Buying: Know the Warning Signs
Buying a trailer is a balance. How much do you trust the salesperson? How skeptical should you be? The excitement of a new trailer can overshadow the most important part: Will it safely do the job?
First step is thinking about the specs. You DO NOT need to be an expert, but there are things that should raise an alarm. We will look again at the example above. This, from the trailer purchase.
In the description, we see this trailer has a standard capacity of 9,990 lb., tandem axle. It says “built with a 6″ tubular main frame”. Does a 6″ beam seem right for a 32 ft trailer? Most people will not know, and that is understandable. (The answer is NO.) Think about it: 32 feet long holding 10,000 lbs (the weight of 2 or 3 cars!).
The problem is not the load, but the load plus the length. When beams get long, they bend easier.
Looking At The Specification
Yes, I see things through eyes of experience, yet I don’t expect that from others. However, I hope showing my thought process will help you spot the warning signs yourself. Here we go.
Line 2 of the specification: Upgrade to 7,000 lb axles. Still tandem axles. This change requires a beam upgrade from 6″ to 8″. Sure, that makes sense considering a 40% capacity increase from 10,000 lbs to 14,000 lbs.
Line 3 adds a 3rd 7000 lb axle, bumping capacity up again from 14,000 to 21,000 lbs – a 50% increase – but no additional beam upgrade? Big RED Flag! If it needs a beam upgrade from 6″ to 8″ for a 4000 lb increase, where is the upgrade to increase another 7000 lbs?
Then the tongue. When the trailer arrived, why did it still have 6″ beams? If that is the spec for 10,000 lbs, how is it OK for 21,000 lbs? – More than double the weight?
My Professional Perspective
Beam size is about both load and length. And, it is not just the outside beam dimensions. These are fairly thin wall at 1/8″ thick. (You can tell from the outside by looking at the radius of the corners. A tighter radius means a thinner wall inside.)
Of course, the 4″x2″ beam is only an example. It is easy to measure the outside dimensions, and the above thinking applies to all sizes. Specific to the story above, it applies to the 6″x2″ and 8″ beams of the trailer.
In my opinion, an 1/8″ wall tube is inadequate for the main beams of trailers with 7000 lb axles – Long or Short – 1 axle or many. Unless there is a serious load distributing structure, the axle mount points will eventually begin to buckle if the supporting material is only 1/8″ thick.
That does not mean 1/8″ material is bad. For a lighter duty trailer, and for other areas of the frame, 1/8″ thick can be wonderful. Don’t judge a trailer only by the material thickness. It is definitely a combination effect.
Looking At The Construction
Again, this is from an experienced eye perspective, but hopefully it helps you build understanding.
The customer said he was not impressed with the trailer construction. That is a Big RED Flag! If the manufacturer did not get the obvious right, what corners might they be cutting in areas that are not visible?
Here is another photo from under the trailer. I have labeled a few things so you know what we are looking at.
This is under the front of the trailer. As you can see in the photo near the top of this article, this trailer has 3 tongue beams. In this photo we are looking at how the middle beam attaches.
To Spot A Weak Trailer, Think About Load – And Leverage?
If the trailer capacity is 21,000 lbs, the tongue will carry at least 10%, or 2100 lbs. (We recommend 12%, but 10% minimum.) With 3 tubes, that is 700 lbs each.
Now think about leverage.
If that 700 lbs is 3 feet out, the trailer frame must counteract the lever. This middle tongue beam extends under the trailer only about 1 foot (past the Front Main Beam which serves as the lever fulcrum). That means the back end of the beam is dealing with three times the force – over 2,000 lbs at that connection. Using round numbers.
Do you think that little piece of angle iron will carry 3 times what the tongue beam is carrying? Not a chance.
This second photo shows more of the failure. Notice how the small bar bent, pulling the screws out of the trailer floor. The middle tongue beam is a lever, unsupported by anything of substance.
A Big RED Flag! If a large beam is not supported well by something of strength. Look no further. This is cheap construction.
IF, this beam extended well under the trailer attached to several smaller crossmembers, that can constitute strength. But NOT one little bar with a leverage ratio of 3 to 1 !!
My Professional Perspective
The highest points of stress on most trailers are: First, where the tongue attaches to the main trailer frame, and Second, points where the axles attach.
* (Flip flop the order for torsion axles because they create more stress – and you know I do not recommend torsions in tandem or triple because they don’t share the load.)As a trailer towing public, I think we get cavalier thinking about trailer loads. Do you know what 10,000 lbs looks like? It is more than your truck. Do you know what 14,000 lbs is? Or 21,000 lbs?
Here is the key: Look at more than the numbers. Look at what the numbers mean. If you pile up 4 mid-size SUVs, that is the area of 21,000 lbs. Now look at the beams and ask . . . Do I trust the beams to hold that much weight spread over this length?
Look At The Components
Standard trailer parts have a load capacity on them. Things like the Axles, the Tires, the Coupler (hitch), the Tongue Jack, and Safety Chains. Make sure they are appropriate for the trailer.
This customer found the coupler rating is 14,000 lbs, yet the trailer has a label (and axles) for 21,000 lbs. This image shows the coupler. Do you see it?
A trailer is only as strong as the weakest component, so the true rating of this trailer is 14,000 lbs. (Lowest value wins.)
Tires are another common weak point. For a 7000 lb axle, each tire must carry 3500 lbs. Right? No. That is not enough, because when driving around a corner, the outside tires carry more, which means they support MORE THAN half the axle load.
At least 10% over, but I recommend 15% over. For this trailer, choose tires rated for 4025 lbs or more.
(If your trailer has multiple torsion axles, add another 15%. Tire failures with multiple torsion axles happen more often – because they do not share.)
What Should You Do When Encountering A Weak Trailer?
Walk away.
Even with a custom order, you have the right to reject poor workmanship. The seller may tell you otherwise, but as a consumer, you have rights – especially if you document clear construction flaws. Take photos (or better yet a video) explaining the areas of concern. They must make it right or refund your money.
Ask Before You Buy
When you sit down to order a trailer, ask questions about strength of the frame. Ask for engineering documents showing the trailer will really carry what they say. If they won’t or can’t produce the documents, then that should tell you something.
My Professional Perspective
There is so much to say, but I will summarize this way: I think many trailer manufacturers are irresponsible in the way they build trailers. Most do not have a qualified engineer on staff. They guess. They cut corners. And, they often ignore the harsh realities of real-world towing.
Unfortunately, there is a societal push for “lighter” trailers, and less expensive trailers. Manufacturers try to appease this by taking shortcuts and cutting corners. I have seen it, but would not sign-off on their weak trailer design(s).
See above for more articles on this website of instances of bent and broken frames and tongues. It is frustrating to me to see customers suffer the consequences of manufacturing shortcuts.
Summary, Before You Buy A Weak Trailer . . .
There are always clues to knowing a weak trailer. You do not have to be an expert, but please take the time to get under the trailer and see how it is made. Ask yourself, does this look strong enough? Is everything attached well? Do the welds look strong and are they complete everywhere? Do the beam sizes look right for the rating?
If you are not sure, take it to a good weld shop – not a trailer dealer repair shop – and ask someone with experience what they think. Like the customer of this story, you might see something in his face telling you everything you need to know.
To be complete, we need to mention the obvious. If you are not satisfied with trailers for sale, you can build one So Much Better than buying from a dealer. We sell the best trailer plans. Building is not for everyone, but it is a sure way to get an awesome trailer.
Good Luck with your next Trailer Purchase.
🚩 Quick Reference: Red Flags When Buying a Trailer
1. Undersized Frame Beams (Tongue and Main Beams)
- Examine the beams, and make sure you are comfortable with the size. For instance, 6″ beams on long/heavy trailers = 🚫
- Beam wall thickness. Be comfortable with the frame. For instance, 1/8″ wall tubing on 7K axles = 🚫
Rule of thumb: Longer trailer = stronger beam needed.
Editorial: This is hard to know without experience. Take it to a welder to examine if you doubt.
2. Capacity Upgrades Require Structural Upgrades Too
- Upgrading to more axles or a heavier trailer capacity rating? The Frame must upgrade too.
No change in beams = big red flag.
3. Underrated Components – Like Chains, Coupler or Tongue Jack
- Make sure the parts are rated for more than the sticker declares.
- Part capacity greater than the sticker = Good.
Always check component ratings. Ask for documentation for validation from the dealer if parts are not marked.
4. Weak or Incomplete Tongue Design
- Tongue beams should extend well under the trailer and be solidly supported.
- Tongue beams should “feel” like they are on par with the main beams.
TIP: If attachment seems weak ≠ strong enough.
Editorial: This is also hard to know. Tongues are often different material than the frame, which is OK, but they should be seem reasonable. Caution, however, in the example above, three 6″ tongue beams on a trailer with two 8″ main beams seems reasonable. It was not, because the 8″ main beams are also insufficient, and the poor tongue attachment means only 2 of the tongue beams carried the load. Evaluate everything together.
5. Tires Just Barely Rated for the Load
- Tires should exceed half the axle rating by at least 10% – 15% over.
Stronger tires = Safer towing.
6. Sloppy Construction Details
- Misaligned welds, sketchy weld quality, thin brackets, or poor fitment = 🚫
If it looks rushed, it probably was.
7. No Engineering Documents
- Ask: “Can you show me how this trailer was engineered for that weight?”
If they can’t or won’t = walk away
Bonus Pro Tip: Bring a flashlight, a notepad, your phone (for photos), and 15 extra minutes. Get under the trailer, then look at how it is made and what holds it together. If you like what you see, then buy it, and enjoy your new trailer.
We appreciate your kind contributions.
Thank You.
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