Choosing Tandem Axles (and Triples)

It all rides on the trailer axles, so get them right.  Here are some common technologies (and misnomers) for tandem axles and other multi-axle trailers.

The most common are tandem axles configurations.  Triple axles are less common, but you do see them once in a while.  Going up from there is far less common, so we’ll keep this discussion to Tandems and Triples.

Why use Tandem Axles? (or Triples?)

The concept is easy . . . ya gotta carry more load, so put more axles under the trailer.  Easy enough, but Why not just buy a beefier single axle?

There are 4 big reasons for multiple axles, plus one more little one:

  1. Tires.  To carry more weight you need beefier tires, and higher capacity (road rated) tires are usually bigger diameter.  That affects bed height, and a host of other details.
  2. Tires.  With a single axle, regardless of how beefy it is, if you damage one tire, you have a major issue.  With 2 or 3 tires per side, you can usually stop before serious damage occurs.
  3. Load distribution.  With more axles, the load is spread over a much broader portion of the frame.  That helps with strength.
  4. Ride.  With multiple axles, load to the ground is distributed over more points, so when a tire encounters a bump or pot hole, the load sharing linkage mitigates the contribution to bouncing or jarring the trailer.  This gives a smoother ride.
  5. Some say it gives Better Tracking, which it can if everything is set up correctly because multiple axles give a much larger footprint.  If the axles are off, just a little, it will do the opposite and make the trailer less stable.

What Technology Should I Use For Multiple Axles?

There are tons of places to purchase axles, and the hardware is pretty standard and common.  So, just buy the axles and weld them on.  Right?  Mostly, but there’s more about axles than that.  Let’s look at some of the technologies.

  1. Leaf Spring Style:

    These are the most common, by far, and also the cheapest — but those are not the only advantages.  They are the most popular for lots of good reasons.  Choose between Slipper Style and eye-eye style. (Slipper shown here, eye-eye style shown below in the image for Hybrid.)  As a rule of thumb, think Slipper Technology for heavy loads — 6000# Axles and up.  Think Eye-Eye type for lighter applications 4000# axles and below.  Yes, there is a lot of wiggle room, and it’s just a rule of thumb, so consider the application.  Oh, and be super careful with used trailer axles that might not be what they seem.
    Slipper Springs

  2. Torsion Axles:

    I will refer to this as “Twin Axles” rather than “Tandem Axles” because the 2 do not interact with each other.  They do not equalize, nor do they really load share unless the road is flat and level.  This configuration is a disaster waiting to happen IMO, and here is the engineering to support it (written in simple terms).

    Basically, if you go up a bump (or down), one axle will completely (or almost completely) take all the load and, depending on your capacity, maybe overload.  While it’s true that torsion axles handle overload conditions better than springs, the tires don’t, and frames don’t.  (See Hybrid below.)  Also see our previous post comparing torsion axles with leaf springs.  Read the links, because here is so much more to this topic.
    Trailer Twin Torsion Axles

  3. Hybrid Using Rubber:

    One of the desires for using twin torsion axles (as shown above), is the vibration damping that comes with rubber.  By simply using rubber in the equalizer with leaf springs, much of that effect is achieved. See the image below.  This is just one example, and there are many different hybrid types, but the rubber provides vibration damping AND the equalizing.  This allows the axles to share the load when the road is not flat and level while offering vibration damping.  This is a much better choice.
    Tandem Trailer Axles with EZ Flex

  4. Hybrid Using Mechanisms:

    There are several ways you can use rubber for suspension yet still achieve load sharing.  As an example, here is a patent drawing showing a simple method to connect a pair of torsion axles for equalization with a mechanism.  And there are more methods too.  Just be careful not to violate someone’s intellectual property rights by copying.
    Tandem Torsions Patent
    If you really want tandem axles and torsions, try one like our Twin Torsion Axles.  It’s a hybrid of torsions and Center Pivot noted below.  The design is for you, and it’s royalty free.

  5. Center Pivot (or Walking Beam):

    Another approach entirely is that of a center pivot to accommodate equalization.  (Also called a Walking Beam Suspension.)  This is the best equalization, and I can see why they are so proud of it.  Click the image to watch a YouTube video of it in action. Very cool, but this one from Timbren is very expensive — like almost 10 times as much as leaf springs. Also it does not spread the load over a broad area of the trailer frame, so attention must be given to strength with this kind of a trailer suspension much more than with leaf spring tandem axles.
    Timbren Silent Ride Tandem Axles
    The second image shows just the mechanism.
    Silent Ride Trailer SuspensionThe concept of the center pivot is not new, over the road trucks have been using them for years, but with leaf springs rather than the mechanism shown here. It is not, however, common with smaller trailers.

  6. Unique or Less Common:

    There are, of course, many more options — and variations of the above.  One example is this Low Profile Trailer Suspension which seems to work well for tandem axles.
    Low Lean Trailer SuspensionWe’ll suffice with this.  Some others require a lot of fabrication.  And all have some advantages to consider.  It’s fun and interesting research if you want to know more.

Considerations In Choosing A Trailer Suspension

A final choice for trailer axles should balance many factors and, of course, your situation.  Consider how the trailer will be used, what environment (wet, dry, on-road, off road), cost, etc..  Here are a couple keys to success.

One key with multiple axles is making sure they will share the load.  There really is no point to having multiple axles if they don’t work together.  This is referred to as “Load Share” or “Equalization”.  Since the road is not always flat, and the trailer not always level, the axles need to accommodate uneven ground while still sharing the load.

Imagine for a minute a trailer with tandem axles, without springs or suspension.  As the trailer rolls over a speed bump, the first wheel rises on the bump, then because there is no equalization, the back wheel may lift off the ground too.  This is an example where axles don’t share the load.  On top of the bump, the one axle (and it’s poor tire) takes all the weight.

Think again about a trailer with tandem axles, but this time, think about it with an equalizing suspension.  (The little gold up-side-down Y shaped thing between the trailer springs in the image above is the “Equalizer”.)  It moves like a “Teeter-Totter” to adjust the relative vertical position of the wheels as they go over bumps or into dips.  Load sharing, in this engineering opinion, is absolutely essential.  Whether with springs or torsion, they need to share the load.  To illustrate, please see our post Springs Vs. Torsion Axles.  There we show how Torsion Axles naturally cause higher stress, so imagine that doubled!  It’s not a good idea — especially when you can accomplish almost the same damping with a hybrid system as shown above.  Longer springs also help.

Trailer Axles And Stability

A second key to success is making the axles stable under the trailer.  For discussion purposes let’s look at leaf springs — which includes both slipper and double eye as well as rubber isolated hybrids.

The biggest part of stability is connecting the axles closely to the frame.  When you think about the classic single axle leaf spring situation, in reality the forward portion of the leaf spring acts as a trailing arm connected to the frame.  A trailing arm is a very stable way to mount an axle — and it’s one of the reasons people like the feel of torsion axles.

When 2 leaf spring axles mount in the classic way (like in the image below), the back axle is not a trailing arm, but a leading arm.  That is not as stable.  Yet, because they connect with the linkage in the center, and because motion in one moves the other, it becomes stable.  It’s a quasi stable condition that is proven to work.  As a side note, this is why you sometimes see trailer brakes on just the front tandem axle, and not the back one.

A reason to use slipper style springs is the pinning of the back axle springs to a more supportive front piece.  Looking at the photo above showing slipper springs, it is easy to see that the back springs attach to the center equalizer, allowing them to “float” at the back.  This is also quasi stable because movement in the equalizer actually moves the back axle fore and aft just a tiny bit.  This is not bad or dangerous in any way, but it’s worth understanding, and it makes rear axle brakes work better (more stable).  That’s one reason for the 6000# rule of thumb.

Triple Trailer Axles

For really heavy or really long trailers, triple axle configurations are common. In context of the discussion above, making the middle axle both equalized and front anchored becomes a bit of a challenge.  Slippers solve that problem for the center axle just like the mechanism shown for the tandem axles in the photo of leaf springs above.  Double eye spring configurations solve the same task with another type of equalizer. Compare the equalizer rocker for the tandem axles and triple axles in this drawing below.  Note the front equalizer as compared to the back one for the triple.

Tandem and Triple Trailer Axles

Trailer Stability

Please note the discussion above is about axle stability under the trailer.  Overall trailer stability requires axle stability, but there is more too, including proper axle position under the trailer.  For more information, please read our article on Synthx.com about trailer stability.

Tandem Axles Recommendations

If you have tons of money and lots of space under your trailer (and an extra strong frame), the Timbren Silent Ride may make the perfect tandem axles.  Or, if you want something unique, and effective, try a tandem axle setup like this twin teetering torsion design we did.  (See the video too.)

If you’re like most of us, cost is important, so the next best choice is a leaf spring suspension with a rubber isolator in the equalizer as shown above.  There are many kinds for tandems and for triples.  Finally, the standard leaf springs on tandem axles (or triples) are a well proven, solid (and the least expensive) choice.  Use eye-eye for lighter applications, and slipper style for the heavy duty ones.

Again, I would never use twin torsion axles without some accommodation for load sharing.  Before dismissing this “un” recommendation, read our other post about the engineering side of Springs Vs. Torsion Axles and realize it is compounded with heavier trailers and more axles.

More On Tandem Axles?

Watch for more about trailer axles in general and tandem axles in specific — in coming posts — like this one looking at spring mounting.  There is too much to discuss on just one page.  Another good source is the set of articles titled “What Makes A Good Trailer?” from Synthesis.

10 Comments About “Choosing Tandem Axles (and Triples)”

  1. Hi. Nice article, helps me a lot on my project. I am thinking of the triple axel set up and was wondering what the spacing is on the axels? Thanks

    Reply
    • Thanks for the note. Axle spacing depends on several things like spring length, tire & wheel size, hardware and more. There are some standards, so I recommend following info from the axle and hardware manufacturers. For instance, this PDF gives suggestions for Dexter axles and hardware based on each axle capacity. Good luck with your project.

      Reply
  2. Why no analysis or discussion on air bag suspended trailers? Intuitively, I’d think they suffer some of the frame loading stress concentration issues as torsion axles, for maximum deflection bumps (hitting the hard-mounts).

    On the other hand, if I’m right in my intuition there can be solutions for that. And, there should also be the advantages that airbags have:

    1. variable ride height
    2. variable spring rates
    3. some natural damping effects of the rubber
    4. suppression of a wide band of vibration frequencies, which protects both trailer and it’s load from fatigue loading stresses

    Downsides are: if you develop a leak or have un-repairable rubber tears, cracks, or rots, then road-side repairs are made more difficult, and you may not be able to safely limp home on a jerry-rigged repair.

    I mean virtually all OTR trucks have gone to them. And they’re no more expensive than other systems really. What’s your opinion and analysis?

    Reply
    • Good comments and good observations. Thanks for the questions. Unfortunately I don’t have much experience with them. The trailer axle kits available for DIY are more expensive with a lot more going on, so they don’t appear much. I like your intuition, and I don’t have much to add either way. Maybe a comment on required monitoring and maintenance.

      Reply
  3. I making a 16′ double axle trailer with slipper springs and I would like to know the proper positions to put all three brackets for the springs. Center pivot and the 2 outside brackets. The springs are 26 1/2″ from center hole to end with 3500# axles and the A frame tongue is 54″ out from the front frame. Thank you in advance for your response, Tom.

    Reply
  4. My vpn has interrupted this… I’ll try again
    You guys are so helpful. More business’ should operate with this sort of approach. Do well and prosper for it!

    Shalom

    Reply
  5. This is very comprehensive information, so I’m asking the creator of this for help: I’m attaching a link to a picture of my oddly worn axle triangles. I’m assuming this problem is caused by incorrect axle positioning, but could it possibly be caused by rear axle brakes? I’ve never seen triangles wear like this before…

    http://imgur.com/gallery/op5z5gu

    Reply
    • There is a lot here. First, I agree, that’s a different wear pattern. I don’t think it’s brakes. The wear is a straight-ish vertical line, so it’s likely suspension loading is symmetric. Probably not incorrect positioning either. Your guess about one causing the other is possible, but I personally guess it’s poor quality parts. There should be a bushing in the eye to keep it from wearing into the cast material, but I’m guessing that was not there, or bad, so it wore quickly. The bolt is much harder than the cast, so after wearing through the thick part, the thin area went relatively fast. These parts are under-rated or just cheap junk. I’d replace with all new parts (rocker, bushings, bolts), then keep an eye on it. I’m also wondering if an imbalanced wheel would exacerbate this, causing it to fret all along the drive? Good luck.

      Reply

Leave a Comment

10 Comments About “Choosing Tandem Axles (and Triples)”

  1. Hi. Nice article, helps me a lot on my project. I am thinking of the triple axel set up and was wondering what the spacing is on the axels? Thanks

    Reply
    • Thanks for the note. Axle spacing depends on several things like spring length, tire & wheel size, hardware and more. There are some standards, so I recommend following info from the axle and hardware manufacturers. For instance, this PDF gives suggestions for Dexter axles and hardware based on each axle capacity. Good luck with your project.

      Reply
  2. Why no analysis or discussion on air bag suspended trailers? Intuitively, I’d think they suffer some of the frame loading stress concentration issues as torsion axles, for maximum deflection bumps (hitting the hard-mounts).

    On the other hand, if I’m right in my intuition there can be solutions for that. And, there should also be the advantages that airbags have:

    1. variable ride height
    2. variable spring rates
    3. some natural damping effects of the rubber
    4. suppression of a wide band of vibration frequencies, which protects both trailer and it’s load from fatigue loading stresses

    Downsides are: if you develop a leak or have un-repairable rubber tears, cracks, or rots, then road-side repairs are made more difficult, and you may not be able to safely limp home on a jerry-rigged repair.

    I mean virtually all OTR trucks have gone to them. And they’re no more expensive than other systems really. What’s your opinion and analysis?

    Reply
    • Good comments and good observations. Thanks for the questions. Unfortunately I don’t have much experience with them. The trailer axle kits available for DIY are more expensive with a lot more going on, so they don’t appear much. I like your intuition, and I don’t have much to add either way. Maybe a comment on required monitoring and maintenance.

      Reply
  3. I making a 16′ double axle trailer with slipper springs and I would like to know the proper positions to put all three brackets for the springs. Center pivot and the 2 outside brackets. The springs are 26 1/2″ from center hole to end with 3500# axles and the A frame tongue is 54″ out from the front frame. Thank you in advance for your response, Tom.

    Reply
  4. My vpn has interrupted this… I’ll try again
    You guys are so helpful. More business’ should operate with this sort of approach. Do well and prosper for it!

    Shalom

    Reply
  5. This is very comprehensive information, so I’m asking the creator of this for help: I’m attaching a link to a picture of my oddly worn axle triangles. I’m assuming this problem is caused by incorrect axle positioning, but could it possibly be caused by rear axle brakes? I’ve never seen triangles wear like this before…

    http://imgur.com/gallery/op5z5gu

    Reply
    • There is a lot here. First, I agree, that’s a different wear pattern. I don’t think it’s brakes. The wear is a straight-ish vertical line, so it’s likely suspension loading is symmetric. Probably not incorrect positioning either. Your guess about one causing the other is possible, but I personally guess it’s poor quality parts. There should be a bushing in the eye to keep it from wearing into the cast material, but I’m guessing that was not there, or bad, so it wore quickly. The bolt is much harder than the cast, so after wearing through the thick part, the thin area went relatively fast. These parts are under-rated or just cheap junk. I’d replace with all new parts (rocker, bushings, bolts), then keep an eye on it. I’m also wondering if an imbalanced wheel would exacerbate this, causing it to fret all along the drive? Good luck.

      Reply

Leave a Comment

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